1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt
1 small onion, chopped
1 small head red cabbage, quartered, cored, and sliced thinly
2 medium baking apples, peeled, cored, and cut in eighths
3 whole garlic cloves (optional)
Raisins or prunes (optional)
Whole coriander seeds
French four-spice mix (ground nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves)
1/2 cup red wine
Freshly ground pepper
Serves 4.
Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft. Add cabbage, apples, raisins, and garlic to the pot, stir to coat, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until the cabbage starts to soften. Season with whole coriander seeds, French four-spice (light-handedly), and salt. Stir to combine.
Pour the wine over the vegetables, cover, lower the heat to medium-low, and simmer for about an hour, stirring from time to time to make sure the vegetables don't burn at the bottom. Adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with pepper, and serve with strong mustard on the side. Excellent with pork.
From Chocolate and Zucchini
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Vanilla Ice Cream
Makes 1 quart; adapated from Cook's Illustrated
If necessary, two teaspoons of vanilla extract may be substituted for the vanilla bean. To maximize the extract’s potency, stir it into the chilled custard just before churning.
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups whole milk and/or buttermilk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup granulated sugar
4 inch piece vanilla bean, slit lengthwise and seeds removed, pod reserved
4 large egg yolks
1. Position a strainer over a medium bowl set in a larger bowl containing ice water. Heat the milk, cream, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the vanilla seeds and pod in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to break up the vanilla seeds, until steam appears and the milk is warm (about 175 degrees), about 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a medium bowl until combined and pale yellow. Whisk half the warm milk mixture into the beaten yolks, 1/2 cup at a time, until combined. Whisk the milk-yolk mixture into the warm milk in the saucepan; set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until steam appears, foam subsides, and the mixture is slightly thickened or an instant-read thermometer registers 180 to 185 degrees. (Do not boil the mixture, or the eggs will curdle.) Immediately strain the custard into the bowl set in the ice bath; cool the custard to room temperature, stirring it occasionally to help it cool. Cover and refrigerate until an instant-read thermometer registers 40 degrees or lower, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
3. Remove and discard the vanilla pod from the custard (or add the vanilla extract, if using) and stir well. Pour the custard into the ice cream machine canister and churn, following the manufacturer’s instructions, until the mixture resembles soft-serve ice cream. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press plastic wrap flush against the surface, cover the container, and freeze the ice cream until firm, at least 2 hours. (The ice cream will keep for up to 2 days.)
If necessary, two teaspoons of vanilla extract may be substituted for the vanilla bean. To maximize the extract’s potency, stir it into the chilled custard just before churning.
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups whole milk and/or buttermilk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup granulated sugar
4 inch piece vanilla bean, slit lengthwise and seeds removed, pod reserved
4 large egg yolks
1. Position a strainer over a medium bowl set in a larger bowl containing ice water. Heat the milk, cream, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the vanilla seeds and pod in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to break up the vanilla seeds, until steam appears and the milk is warm (about 175 degrees), about 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a medium bowl until combined and pale yellow. Whisk half the warm milk mixture into the beaten yolks, 1/2 cup at a time, until combined. Whisk the milk-yolk mixture into the warm milk in the saucepan; set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until steam appears, foam subsides, and the mixture is slightly thickened or an instant-read thermometer registers 180 to 185 degrees. (Do not boil the mixture, or the eggs will curdle.) Immediately strain the custard into the bowl set in the ice bath; cool the custard to room temperature, stirring it occasionally to help it cool. Cover and refrigerate until an instant-read thermometer registers 40 degrees or lower, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
3. Remove and discard the vanilla pod from the custard (or add the vanilla extract, if using) and stir well. Pour the custard into the ice cream machine canister and churn, following the manufacturer’s instructions, until the mixture resembles soft-serve ice cream. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press plastic wrap flush against the surface, cover the container, and freeze the ice cream until firm, at least 2 hours. (The ice cream will keep for up to 2 days.)
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Grapes!
Glossary of grape varieties:
Here is a selection of grapes you might find at Bay Area farmers' markets and at some specialty stores.
Bronx. Considered by some to be the Rolls Royce of table grapes, this rare hybrid is grown by Lagier Ranches in the Ripon area. It has a reddish-gray color, silken texture and muscat-like flavor.
Champagne. Also known as Zante grapes. Although they have a lovely, distinctive flavor, the table grapes from this wine variety tend to sell for their looks: tiny burgundy-colored berries in tight, appealingly shaped clusters.
Concord. Containing a lot of their distinctive flavor in their dark blue skins, these native grapes pop open to reveal a sweet, gelatin-like interior.
Muscat. This grape goes into Italy's Moscato, a perfumey dessert wine. Table grapes have similar qualities, with a honeyed sweetness and a background of acidity.
Thompson. This common, very sweet green grape has a complex flavor when completely ripe and slightly golden. You're more likely to see ripe ones at farmers' markets.
How to use specialty grapes:
The complex, wine-y flavor of Muscat, Concord and other specialty table grapes allows them to work in savory preparations in a way similar to figs. Here are some ideas from Laurent Manrique of Aqua restaurant in San Francisco.
Grape panini. Toast sourdough bread and rub it with a little bit of fresh garlic. Mix halved Muscat or Cabernet grapes in a bowl with olive oil, fresh black pepper and sea salt. Spread them over the bread and top with dry goat cheese and sliced prosciutto.
Print This Recipe
Bread and grape salad. Toss diced toasted sourdough bread with halved Concord grapes, walnut oil, sherry vinegar, fresh walnuts and salt and pepper to taste. The grape juices will soak into the bread like tomato juices do in panzanella.
Here is a selection of grapes you might find at Bay Area farmers' markets and at some specialty stores.
Bronx. Considered by some to be the Rolls Royce of table grapes, this rare hybrid is grown by Lagier Ranches in the Ripon area. It has a reddish-gray color, silken texture and muscat-like flavor.
Champagne. Also known as Zante grapes. Although they have a lovely, distinctive flavor, the table grapes from this wine variety tend to sell for their looks: tiny burgundy-colored berries in tight, appealingly shaped clusters.
Concord. Containing a lot of their distinctive flavor in their dark blue skins, these native grapes pop open to reveal a sweet, gelatin-like interior.
Muscat. This grape goes into Italy's Moscato, a perfumey dessert wine. Table grapes have similar qualities, with a honeyed sweetness and a background of acidity.
Thompson. This common, very sweet green grape has a complex flavor when completely ripe and slightly golden. You're more likely to see ripe ones at farmers' markets.
How to use specialty grapes:
The complex, wine-y flavor of Muscat, Concord and other specialty table grapes allows them to work in savory preparations in a way similar to figs. Here are some ideas from Laurent Manrique of Aqua restaurant in San Francisco.
Grape panini. Toast sourdough bread and rub it with a little bit of fresh garlic. Mix halved Muscat or Cabernet grapes in a bowl with olive oil, fresh black pepper and sea salt. Spread them over the bread and top with dry goat cheese and sliced prosciutto.
Print This Recipe
Bread and grape salad. Toss diced toasted sourdough bread with halved Concord grapes, walnut oil, sherry vinegar, fresh walnuts and salt and pepper to taste. The grape juices will soak into the bread like tomato juices do in panzanella.
Cauliflower Gruyère Soup
From The Girl & the Fig Cookbook
Makes: 6 servings
Ingredients
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 1 onion, thinly sliced
* 1 head cauliflower, broken into small florets
* salt and white pepper
* 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
* 1 quart chicken stock (4 cups)
* bouquet garni (3 Italian parsley sprigs, 1 tarragon sprig, 3 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf)
* 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
* 2 tablespoons butter (if needed)
* 2 tablespoons flour (if needed)
* 1/4 cup chopped chives
Instructions
1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onion slowly until soft and translucent but not browned. Add the cauliflower, lightly season with salt and pepper, and cook over a low flame for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so the mixture does not brown. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes, allowing the mixture to lightly brown. Add the stock and bouquet garni and bring the mixture to a boil. Once the soup has come to a rolling boil reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni.
2. Purée the soup. If soup isn't thick enough, prepare a roux with the butter and flour, then add to soup. Add the Gruyère. Adjust the seasoning. Garnish with the chives.
Beverage pairing: Viognier
Makes: 6 servings
Ingredients
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 1 onion, thinly sliced
* 1 head cauliflower, broken into small florets
* salt and white pepper
* 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
* 1 quart chicken stock (4 cups)
* bouquet garni (3 Italian parsley sprigs, 1 tarragon sprig, 3 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf)
* 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
* 2 tablespoons butter (if needed)
* 2 tablespoons flour (if needed)
* 1/4 cup chopped chives
Instructions
1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onion slowly until soft and translucent but not browned. Add the cauliflower, lightly season with salt and pepper, and cook over a low flame for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so the mixture does not brown. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Add the garlic and cook for 5 more minutes, allowing the mixture to lightly brown. Add the stock and bouquet garni and bring the mixture to a boil. Once the soup has come to a rolling boil reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni.
2. Purée the soup. If soup isn't thick enough, prepare a roux with the butter and flour, then add to soup. Add the Gruyère. Adjust the seasoning. Garnish with the chives.
Beverage pairing: Viognier
Mole Verde
By Aliza Green, from Field Guide to Herbs & Spices
Makes: 1 quart
Ingredients
* 1 pound of tomatillos
* 2 seeded jalapeños
* 1 bunch cilantro
* 2 cloves garlic
* 1 coarsely chopped white onion
* 1 cup raw pumpkinseeds
* 3 tablespoons lard or oil
* 1 cup chicken stock
Instructions
1. Peel off the papery skin from 1 pound of tomatillos and cook in 2 cups boiling salted water for about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.
2. Blend the tomatillos, 2 seeded jalapeños, the leaves from 1 bunch cilantro, 2 cloves garlic, and 1 coarsely chopped white onion with about 1/2 cup of the cooking water until smooth. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Toast 1 cup raw pumpkinseeds in 1 tablespoon lard or oil. Blend with 1 cup chicken stock until smooth. Combine both mixtures.
4. Melt 2 tablespoons lard or oil and fry the tomatillo–pumpkinseed mixture for 3 minutes, or until bubbling hot. Season to taste with salt. Serve with chicken enchiladas or tacos.
Makes: 1 quart
Ingredients
* 1 pound of tomatillos
* 2 seeded jalapeños
* 1 bunch cilantro
* 2 cloves garlic
* 1 coarsely chopped white onion
* 1 cup raw pumpkinseeds
* 3 tablespoons lard or oil
* 1 cup chicken stock
Instructions
1. Peel off the papery skin from 1 pound of tomatillos and cook in 2 cups boiling salted water for about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.
2. Blend the tomatillos, 2 seeded jalapeños, the leaves from 1 bunch cilantro, 2 cloves garlic, and 1 coarsely chopped white onion with about 1/2 cup of the cooking water until smooth. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Toast 1 cup raw pumpkinseeds in 1 tablespoon lard or oil. Blend with 1 cup chicken stock until smooth. Combine both mixtures.
4. Melt 2 tablespoons lard or oil and fry the tomatillo–pumpkinseed mixture for 3 minutes, or until bubbling hot. Season to taste with salt. Serve with chicken enchiladas or tacos.
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